GREECE TRAVEL GUIDES

"We are blessed with a rugged coastline that has many little bays—or limanakia—which all have their own appeal," says DION SERRAS on Athens' second, and oft-overlooked port town, RAFINA.

RAFINA port guide

by DION SERRAS

RAFINA is a port town that runs ferry connections to popular islands such as MYKONOS, ANDROS, TINOS, PAROS. It is around a 40-minute drive from the centre of ATHENS and a 15-minute drive from Athens International Airport (Eleftherios Venizelos), which makes it super convenient if you want to bypass central Athens and get to the islands quickly. The beaches are beautiful and there are great spots to eat, making it a good place to perch for a night or two while you wait for a ferry or a flight.

We spoke to Athens-based photographer DION SERRAS, who up until last month lived in RAFINA and knows the best spots to hit up when you are in town — which is very helpful in a place like Rafina, where you might not have a lot of time and want to make the most of it.

What are some of the reasons you might choose to take a ferry from RAFINA over the busier but more central PIRAEUS port?

There are a few reasons why it’s nicer to take the ferry from RAFINA. The first is that it is much closer to the airport, which cuts down on extra travel after a long flight. Secondly, it’s much easier to find your ferry, and much easier to park your car close to the port if you have one and aren’t taking it with you! Thirdly, RAFINA has its own traditional seafood culture and seaside community, which means there are beautiful restaurants right on the port, as well as a beach right in town with beach bars during the summer.

"RAFINA has its own traditional seafood culture and seaside community, which means there are beautiful restaurants right on the port, as well as a beach right in town with beach bars during the summer."

It doesn’t seem like there are a lot of hotels in RAFINA. Where do you suggest staying?

That’s true, we only have AVRA HOTEL which is a decent size but quite often full during peak season. Airbnb's and smaller private rentals have started popping up, which is quite nice because it gives travellers the opportunity to stay somewhere more unique with a local feel. I started hosting myself last summer and have found it to be quite a nice service for people in transit to and from the islands. I have a STUDIO perfect for two people/couples, and a TWO-BEDROOM option which sleeps up to four people.

"Smaller private rentals have started popping up, which is quite nice because it gives travellers the opportunity to stay somewhere more unique with a local feel."

How easy is it to get to RAFINA from the main Athens airport? How much does it cost?

The airport is only about 15kms from RAFINA, and you have the option of a bus, or taxi/Uber. The train network is planned to extend to RAFINA but it is still some years away I believe. The bus is coach-style and runs from 04:35 until 23:00. It is very cheap at 4€ per passenger, and the end of the line is right on the port. You can view the bus timetable here. A taxi will set you back around 45€, but it is not a set fare.

A take away pita and coffee are easy breakfast ideas before jumping on a ferry, where are your go to spots?

Not only easy, but also such a good way to set the tone for island hopping! My favourite bakery to get a pita is FILIPPOS BAKERY. It’s been there since 1925, and the family that run it are very lovely people. I usually walk there first, and then on my way down to the port I stop at UMBERTO for a takeaway coffee. I recommend Umberto especially if you’re Australian and drink flat whites etc (ask for a double cappuccino then just say no to chocolate/cinammon) but if you’re wanting a frappe, freddo cappuccino or other Greek coffees, any coffee shop you find will be decent quality.

"BLE LIMANAKI is the closest beach and also my personal favourite, with a concrete slab giving access to the water and space to lay in the sun. It’s the kind of spot that old locals visit all year round, and the water is heavenly."

How many days do you recommend staying in RAFINA before heading off to an island?

I think even one day is enough to see RAFINA and get a taste of what it has to offer. If you arrive in the afternoon and stay one night and take a ferry the next day, it gives you enough time to walk around the town, see the coast as well as the town square, have a swim, and enjoy some fresh local food. If you have a car and want to drive to some archeological sites nearby (such as MARATHON) or to the outlet shopping mall in SPATA called McArthur Glen (20 minutes away) then tack on one more day.

Are there good swimming spots other than the main beach?

Oh yes… We are blessed with a rugged coastline that has many little bays—or limanakia—which all have their own appeal. BLE LIMANAKI is the closest and also my personal favourite, with a concrete slab giving access to the water and space to lay in the sun. It’s the kind of spot that old locals visit all year round, and the water is heavenly. Further north there is KOKKINO LIMANAKI, and south of the main Rafina beach is MARIKES BEACH. There is definitely no shortage of spots to swim!

Finally, if I am in RAFINA for two days where do you suggest I eat?

My mouth is actually watering and I haven’t even typed one name yet! For seafood I would go to the port, to KAVOURIA TOU ASIMAKI. They offer a range of seafood from small fried fish, to kalamari and octopus, sardines, larger fish, and even a delicious sting ray dip, to go with the usual sides you would expect from a Greek restaurant. If you’re feeling like home-cooked, taverna style food, then TO LIMENI in the town square is the way to go. Greek classics done simply and done well, and the town square comes alive in the summer which is nice to experience. Lastly if you’re in the mood for gyro or other grilled meats, BARBA VAGGO’s is also in the town square and is top shelf for that style of Greek fast food.

"...walk around the town, see the coast as well as the town square, have a swim, and enjoy some fresh local food."

Photographs by DION SERRAS.