GREECE TRAVEL GUIDES

"My favourite memories of MANI are roadtrips along the south coast," says chef SAPPHO HATZIS. "There’s something about the wild, rocky landscape that feels almost otherworldly."

MANI guide

by SAPPHO HATZIS

Chef SAPPHO HATZIS' approach to food is grounded in the experience of growing up in Melbourne, in a Greek–Australian family of avid cooks and gardeners. Visiting her familial homeland many times growing up, it wasn't until 2020 that Sappho up and left New York's pandemic lockdowns and settled somewhat unexpectedly in Greece.

Sappho shared with us her memories, old and new, of a part of Greece she simply keeps returning to: MANI in the southern Peloponnese.

What does the year ahead look like for you in Greece? Where will you be based this season?

I’m about to begin the season at Melisses again on ANDROS, where I’ll be based for the next six months. Alongside that, I’ll continue working on a number of hospitality consulting projects and some personal creative projects

"I’d definitely recommend staying in a traditional stone tower house, a unique and authentic way to experience the region."

You’re a chef who also cooks for private events. What are some of the most memorable events you’ve worked on?

I’ve done a lot of retreat cooking, but one of the most memorable was at a château in the DORDONGNE region of France. It was in July, an incredible time of year, cooking with my cousin as sous chef. We spent the week running around to beautiful local farmers’ markets, creating magical meals, and cooking in a huge, old château kitchen. It was a special experience from start to finish.

"Porto Gateas is a favourite fish taverna right on the water, with a beautiful swimming spot off the rocks, and there’s also a great taverna in PORTO KAGIO called Taverna Porto."

What is your earliest or most vivid memory of MANI?

Some of my favourite memories of MANI are road trips along the south coast, from KALAMATA to MONEMVASIA. There’s something about the wild, rocky landscape that feels almost otherworldly. I vividly remember arriving in MEZAPOS, a tiny seaside village, and finding a single fish taverna filled with nautical decorations. It was run by an older fisherman who cooked his catch of the day for us with a simple salad, and invited us into the kitchen to chat while he prepared it.

Is there a particular view, village, or drive in the region that stays with you?

VATHIA, the famous abandoned village near OITYLO, always stays with me. It sits high above the sea, and as you approach it, the view of its narrow-windowed stone towers is both beautiful and haunting.

" ... a fisherman ... who cooked his catch of the day for us with a simple salad, and invited us into the kitchen to chat while he prepared it."

As a chef, are there ingredients or traditional dishes from MANI that capture the character of the region?

MANI cuisine is defined by simple, rustic ingredients, which reflect the landscape itself. Smoked pork, local cheeses like mizithra and sfela, wild greens, mountain herbs, and, of course, olive oil.
Some traditional dishes include siglino (smoked, cured pork), lalagia (fried dough rings), kagianas (eggs scrambled with tomato), and tsouchti (pasta with cheese and fried eggs).
Diples, a sweet from KALAMATA, are also a must-try — thin, flaky fried pastry rolled into delicate tubes and drizzled with honey, walnuts, and cinnamon.

Are there any bakeries or tavernas in MANI you always return to?


There’s a lovely bakery in AREOPOLI called Mrs Milias Bread, where they still use a traditional wood-fired oven which is fantastic to see in action, and their cheese pie is excellent.
For seaside dining, LIMENI is something everyone should experience at least once. Porto Gateas is a favourite fish taverna right on the water, with a beautiful swimming spot off the rocks, and there’s also a great taverna in PORTO KAGIO called Taverna Porto.

Can you recommend two different beach experiences in the area?


I tend to avoid the busier beaches, but there’s a small beach near STOUPA with a great seaside taverna called Almyriki, that you can wander over to between swims.
Foneas Beach is another favourite—a small cove with pebbles and incredibly clear water. It’s not organised, but there’s a cute simple snack bar.
For something more secluded, CAPE TAINARON is unforgetable. In Greek mythology this place was considered to be Mythical gates to Hades, the gateway to the underworld. Here we found a short hike to an empty beach.

If a friend were visiting MANI for the first time, where would you suggest they stay?

I’d definitely recommend staying in a traditional stone tower house, a unique and authentic way to experience the region.

"There is a lovely bakery in AREOPOLI
 called Mrs Milias Bread, where they still use a traditional wood-fired oven."

Do you have a favourite seaside village or place to swim?

I love the quiet fishing village of MEZAPOS. LIMENI is unmatched in beauty, and KARDAMYLI offers something a bit more lively, with shops and great swimming off the rocks.


There are also lesser-known spots that are very special, like PARALIA MARATHOS, ALIPA, KOKKOLAS, and AGIOS KIPRIANOS.

What would your perfect day in MANI look like?

I’d start in KALAMATA and drive to KITRIES for a morning swim, then continue to KARDAMYLI for a coffee and snack from a local bakery and a wander through the shops along the main street. From there, a drive towards LIMENIimeni, stopping along the way to swim and explore different coves. The day would end with a long, late lunch at O Takis by the water, slowly turning into sunset drinks.

SAPPHO'S MANI

Best swim: Foneas Beach
Best walk: Wandering through the cobbled streets of Momenvasia
Best long lunch: O Takis or Porto Gateas
Best sunset spot: A bottle of wine on any beach along the Mani coast
Best hidden place: Foneas Beach

"There are also lesser-known swimming spots that are very special, like PARALIA MARATHOS, ALIPA, KOKKOLAS, and AGIOS KIPRIANOS."

Photographs by SAPPHO HATZIS